life is swell...

September 01, 2011

s u r f.

if you grew up in the South Bay (redondo, hermosa, or manhattan beach, ca) you've probably dated {or} are currently dating {or} are married to a surfer. surfer's are a very special breed... they have this deep rooted love for the ocean, beach lifestyle, and BIG waves. and this time of year is when the waves start pumping (surfers term: for getting big)... and today is the start of a very nice swell that's rolling into the south. if you drive along the ocean early enough you'll find surfers lined up studying the swell pattern and waiting for the perfect time to jump into their ideal paradise. especially if you're in the South Bay.... because if there are legit waves... these guys will even take a "sick day" to capitalize on this epic chance to get their first barrel of the swell season.
// a m a z i n g   w a v e   photos. //

mini story: last night i fell asleep to the waves crashing outside my window... and said to the fireman "i think the waves are going to be pretty good tomorrow" and this guy says "yeah. i wish i had a homemade biscuit w. butter & boysenberry jelly". well...... i guess i have a hungry surfer on my hands. he did however wake up early and surfed this morning.

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